Saving Sentimental Shrubs

Folks who want to relocate established shrubs often ask Penn State Master Gardeners for tips to ensure success. I've learned to ask if the plant holds special meaning for them. The responses vary from "I just don't like it there" to "My grandmother has passed, and my family wants to save her favorite old rose bush."

Relocating shrubs that have been in place for years is possible, but it requires planning, effort, and aftercare for success. Often, with sentimental plants, the essential follow-through will occur.

The resident often overlooks an important question: Is the plant truly worth moving? A few years ago, a friend asked if she could pick my sweet mockorange (Philadelphus coronarius) blossoms to take home. Its fragrance was a favorite of her grandmother. As I cut plenty of flowering branches for her, I shared that my father had planted the shrub from a piece of mockorange that had come from my grandparents. I quickly added that if I had more energy, I would rip it out and replace it with one of the newer mockorange cultivars that have better branching, shape, larger flowers, and improved fragrance. To me, this old variety isn't worth the space it takes up.

What are the Steps to Relocate an Established Shrub?

First, identify the plant. Email several photos to the local Garden Hotline so the Penn State Master Gardeners can help. Try the new cell phone apps, including Google Lens. Do research to find the ideal amount of sun, shade, and soil moisture for its new location. Remember: Put the right plant in the right place.

Preparation Before Transplanting

Root-prune the shrub several months to a year before digging it out. Root-pruning is a technique that involves digging a trench around the plant to sever the roots. This will encourage new feeder roots within the root ball, reducing transplant shock. Use a sharp spade to cut a circle through the root area. For a medium-sized shrub, about 14 inches from the trunk should be sufficient. Be sure to provide deep irrigation during dry spells. Root-prune in autumn to move the plant in the spring. For large plants, root-prune a year or more before transplanting.

Examine the branches of the shrub. Always remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Look at the shrub again and remove a few branches here and there to help the shrub look well-balanced.

Prepare the new site by digging a wide, shallow hole that is two to three times the diameter of the root ball. If the plant requires acidic soil, adjust the pH based on a soil fertility test report. Do not dig out the shrub until the new site has been prepared!

A day or two before the transfer, water the shrub deeply. You will be disrupting its root system, so be sure it is well-hydrated beforehand. Remove the plant from its original location onto a tarp, and tie up the sides to prevent soil loss and drying. Remember to have plenty of help! Root balls are heavy.

Transplanting The Shrub

Transport the shrub to its new location and set it in place. Look at it from all sides to make sure it is straight. Be sure that it is a few inches higher than in its original location to allow for settling. Do not plant too deeply. Backfill with existing soil, firm it, and water thoroughly.

Apply 2 to 3 inches of bark mulch or compost as a top dressing, keeping it away from the trunk. Do not fertilize the shrub! At this time, the soil contains sufficient nutrients for the shrub.

The next step is essential for success and is often overlooked. Irrigate deeply and frequently. Mother Nature will not provide enough water! A light sprinkling with a hose or watering can is insufficient. Applying at least 5 gallons of water per week during the first growing season is a good idea. Be sure that the shrub goes into winter dormancy well-watered, especially if it is an evergreen. When the ground thaws in the spring. Continue deep irrigation.

The final step in successful relocation is patience! The shrub may sulk for two or even three growing seasons. Apply fertilizer only as needed, based on the soil fertility test report results. More fertilizer is not better. Remember, a shallow sprinkling of water is detrimental to plant health.

Propagation From Cuttings

Propagation from cuttings is a way to share a shrub without having to dig it up. Again, identification, timing, and research are key to success. Some species root easily from stem or branch cuttings, such as willows (Salix spp.). Others are challenging, if not impossible, like oaks (Quercus spp.). Research is needed to determine if softwood, semi-hardwood, or hardwood cuttings are best. These terms have a very different meaning to woodworkers than to botanists. In horticulture, plants produce softwood stems in the current growth year, which remain very flexible when harvested. Hardwood cuttings are taken in the autumn or early winter when the plant is dormant. Semi-hardwood cuttings are from partially matured stems in the summer.

Determine where you will store the cuttings while they root. They require high humidity and bright, but indirect light. Prepare a rooting medium by moistening perlite, vermiculite, or peat in pots with drainage.

Select stems that are 3 to 6 inches long, with at least two leaf nodes. Remove any flowers or flower buds to direct energy to root formation. Remove all leaves from the bottom portion of the stem. To reduce moisture loss through stomata in leaves, clip off about half of the leaf blade. Dip the lower part of the cutting in rooting hormone. Always tap off excess. Use a skewer or pencil to poke a hole in [the medium you've prepared]. Insert the cutting into that medium. Keep the medium moist. Be patient. It can take weeks for roots to develop from the nodes. You can peek at the developing roots by digging into the medium with a chopstick or your finger, taking care not to disturb them. After the roots are well established, transfer the cuttings to either a pot filled with potting mix or a prepared soil bed. Continue regular, thorough watering throughout the growing season.

Propagation By Layering

Some shrubs, like forsythia (Forsythia spp.), can be propagated by layering. To layer a stem, bend it so that a node or nodes touch the ground, or just below the ground. Gently bruise or scrape the bark where the stem will touch the soil. Place a stone or brick gently on top. Roots will form where the branch touches the ground. Return in a few months, or in the next growing season, cut the branch on the parent shrub's side. Remove the rock and gently dig the soil around the rooted stem. Relocate the branch tip and its roots to their new location. Water deeply and consistently throughout the growing season.

Follow-Up Care

Saving a sentimental shrub requires more than just transplanting it to a different place. It is essential to remember that the shrub must establish new roots in its new location. Transplanted shrubs, especially those previously established, require deep, regular watering for at least one full growing season. Give it tender loving care so you can add your own memories to its history.