Planting a Riparian Grass Buffer for Wildlife
If maximizing wildlife benefit is the goal of a grass buffer installation, consider fostering a mix of different species. While this is likely not ideal for harvest and livestock use, planting species to mimic natural grasslands is the most effective way to provide wildlife habitat. A mosaic of patches of warm and cool season grasses, wildflowers, forbs, and other perennial plants will benefit a large variety of different wildlife species. Â
Species Selection
Warm Season Grasses
These grasses grow throughout the summer and provide habitat throughout the year. Because they grow in dense bunches with open space between, they provide nesting and cover for deer, birds, rabbits, and other small mammals. The presence of small birds and mammals also makes them ideal hunting grounds for predators such as snakes, foxes, and hawks. The tall, rigid stems of warm season grasses allow them to remain standing during the winter even with snow accumulation which provides winter cover during a time when cover may be scarce. Planting warm season grasses in an agricultural landscape can have a better chance of attracting species that need the largest grassland areas for successful nesting. Some examples of warm season grasses commonly used in wildlife enhancement projects include big blue stem (Andropogon gerardii), little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), and Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans). These species can also be used as forage if needed. For more information on planting warm season grasses for wildlife, please visit the Extension article on Warm Season Grasses and Wildlife.Â
Cool Season Grasses
These grasses grow during cool spring and fall seasons and remain dormant during the hot and dry weather of summer. Cool season grasses can provide food and cover for wildlife in early spring before warm season grasses begin growing. Birds of prey, foxes, rabbits, and grassland birds will use cool season grasses as feeding grounds and they can also serve as suitable nesting habitat for different sparrow species and meadowlarks. Many cool season grass species are not native, and care should be taken when planting them to avoid invasion into other habitats. Orchardgrass (Dactylis glomerata) and timothy (Phleum pratense) are two recommended cool season grasses for wildlife. The benefits from planting cool season grasses are greatest when mixed with warm-season grasses and other native plants to create more diversity in a grass buffer.
Forbs & Wildflowers
Forbs are non-grass herbaceous species like wildflowers and legumes. Forbs provide additional food for wildlife from seeds and fruits. The nectar of wildflowers can attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees as well as other insects that can in turn feed wildlife. Wildflowers such as cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), and bee balm (Monarda spp.) are good options for enhancing diversity in a mixed grass buffer. Â
Wet tolerant species
In some cases, riparian areas may remain wet through most of the year and typical grass species cannot grow. In this case, native wet tolerant species may be used to create good wildlife habitat. Seeds from bulrush (Scirpus atrovirens), smartweed (Polygonum pensylvanicum), arrowhead (Sagittaria cuneata) are all eaten by a variety of species, especially waterfowl like ducks, geese, swans and other game species such as ring-necked pheasants and mourning doves. The dense stands that smartweed creates can provide cover for young waterfowl and other marsh birds. Arrowhead is often eaten by mammal species like beaver, porcupines, and muskrats and the underground tubers it produces may also be consumed by turtles. Â
Pre-Establishment Maintenance
Native meadows are relatively easy to maintain once they have been started but establishing them can be tricky. The first step in establishing a meadow is to remove the existing weeds, which may take two years depending on the weeds present. This is generally done one of two ways: mowing and spraying or solarization. Mowing and spraying is a highly effective method of weed control that works well over a large area. Solarization is a good option for those who are hesitant to use herbicides, but it is difficult to conduct in large areas or places that are disturbed regularly.
Mowing and Spraying
- The area is left undisturbed until late July when it is mowed down to 3-6 inches, prior to seeding of most weed species
- It is then sprayed with glyphosate in mid to late September. When spraying near water be sure to use a product labeled for wetland use
- Native plants that require overwintering may be planted any time after October using no-till methods
- Dead weeds should be left without the establishment of a cover crop through the winterÂ
- Depending on the amount of weed species present, this may need to be repeated for two years prior to seeding native plants
SolarizationÂ
- A large thick plastic tarp or sheeting is spread over the area prior to the start of the growing season (April-May)
- Keep it secured to the ground for the duration of the growing season (until October).
- This may need to be repeated for two years
- Native plants that require overwintering should be planted any time after October using no-till methods
- Dead weeds should be left without the establishment of a cover crop through the winter
- Depending on the amount of weed species present, this may need to be repeated for two years prior to seeding native plants
Establishment
Native meadows may take several years to get truly established. They generally go through three stages "Sleeping, Creeping, and Leaping."
Sleeping
In the first year, natives start to germinate and slowly establish themselves, but they may be overshadowed by weed species. This is because native plants tend to put more energy in their root system than weed species. To help the meadow be successful, mow it whenever the weeds grow over a foot in height, generally this will require three mowing once a month in June, July, and August. Be cautious about pulling or spraying weed species as those actions may hurt the establishing native species.Â
Creeping
In year two, native annual species will start to become more present, as will weed species that have a two-year growing cycle like Queen Anne's lace. To break the growing cycle on these weeds, mow the meadow down to a foot tall twice after weeds begin to flower, which may take two mowings in early-mid June. Rhizomatous species of weeds like thistle require a spot application of herbicide like glyphosate to control but be take care when applying herbicide at this early stage of development.Â
LeapingÂ
In the third year, meadows are fully established, and native species should begin to outcompete weed species and fill in any gaps. Be sure to spot spray any dense patches of weed species or pull individual weeds.
Post Establishment Maintenance
Established buffers require little maintenance to maximize the benefit to wildlife. Mowing can be done once every 4 to 7 years to remove accumulated residual growth that can hinder wildlife movement and use, clear out any trees that have begun to grow, and ensure species diversity. If needed, mowing should occur after the end of the breeding season for grassland birds – generally after July 15, but August 1 is preferred for bird species that may raise a second brood. To maximize species and habitat diversity, divide the buffer into thirds and mow one section at a time. Additionally, keeping small patches of unmowed areas can help ensure the safety of nesting birds by giving them a safe place to escape during the mowing.
When managing a buffer for wildlife, be sure to set the mower height a foot. Mowing closer to the ground may destroy nests, remove habitat, and allow weed species to invade the buffer. If early season mowing is necessary, rotating large hayfields of 10 acres or more can be done. Additional measures like using a flushing bar to flush birds from grass. Spot spraying with herbicides labeled for use near water can be done on new patches of weeds. Buffers can also be burned on a similar rotation. Burns should be conducted in the spring or fall to knock down any weed species. Avoid burning in the summer when nesting birds are present.












