Planter and Drill Maintenance

The planter is used to plant large-seeded crops like soybeans and corn, and the drill is used to plant small-seeded forages, small grains, and cover crops (although it can also be used to plant a crop like soybeans). The planter is more sophisticated and designed to position seeds at precise depths and with accurate and consistent spacing between the seeds. The drill has less accurate spacing and depth control and has a simpler design with fewer maintenance points than a planter.

Timely planter and drill maintenance is critical so your planting equipment is ready when planting time comes around. Breakdowns can result in delayed planting, and that can result in significant yield penalties. And even if the equipment works, poor stands are the result if a planter or drill is in poor condition. Planter and drill maintenance is especially crucial in no-till. A no-till planter or drill has to be able to plant through heavy crop residue, penetrate firm soil, open a seed slot, place the seeds in it, and close the seed slot so seeds have proper seed-to-soil contact, not cause side-wall compaction, and not excessively compact soil on top of the seed. Suboptimal planter or drill performance results in irregular seed depth, seeds at the soil surface, open seed slots, and compacted soil on top of the seeds. Because seeds are placed deeper with the planter, and seed placement needs to be more accurate than with the drill, poor planter performance can cause sidewall compaction, hairpinning, pushing crop residues into the seed slot, skips, doubles, and triples

To avoid planting problems, first check that your equipment is working properly. Then, regularly check planter performance in the field and adjust settings for soil conditions at planting time. Here follows a checklist for winter planter maintenance:

Planter

• Meters. Dysfunctional metering units result in skips, doubles, and triples. To guarantee optimal performance, take metering units apart every winter. Remove dirt and clean the hood with soapy water (no kerosene, diesel, or oil should ever be used in metering units!). Replace cracked plastic covers. Replace broken fingers in a finger-pickup meter. Use a feeler gauge to check tension on the fingers, then tighten them correctly. Check the back plate and seed brushes for wear, and replace as needed. The belt (in finger pick-up meters) should be flexible, have no cracks, and be clean. Clean with soapy water and let it dry before replacing. When putting the metering unit back together, make sure the rubber belt is placed in the right direction. You can lubricate with graphite (NO OIL or WD-40). It is recommended to take your finger pick-up metering unit to a dealer to have it calibrated every 100-150 acres or at least every 3-4 years. Take a bag of your own seed with you and give the correct speed at which you’ll be driving. If you have a vacuum or air meter, check that the vacuum or air pressure is correct, check for leaks and wear on knock-off brushes, and repair/replace as needed.
• Planter Unit. Accurate depth placement can be compromised if planter units are loose or wobbly. You should not be able to easily lift up a planter unit or move it sideways. Look across your planter units from the side with the planter parked on a level surface. Are they all at the same height? If one unit is either up or down compared to the others, it needs work. A common problem is that some bolts are loose or additional bushings are needed. You also need to replace cracked or broken seed hoppers.
• Seed opener disks. Seed opener disks need to have a minimum diameter (check operator manual) or they will not place the seed at the appropriate depth. Seed opener disks also need to come together in the front (they should touch for 3 inches for old blades, but only 1-1.5 inches on newer blades). Stick two business cards between the openers and move them as close together as possible to check this. If opener disks are worn too much, you will get a "W" shaped seed slot instead of the desired "V" slot, and seed depth will be compromised.
• Seed tubes. The ends of seed tubes may wear to the extent that they curl inwards, catching seeds. There is often a hook halfway up that can easily break off. Seed tube guards need to have their minimum width and be fastened correctly, or damage to the seed tube is likely. Clean seed sensors if you have them.
• Seed firmers.These help to press the seed down in the furrow, guaranteeing more accurate depth placement of the seeds. The tension can be adjusted with a bolt. If the seed firmers are worn too much, they need to be replaced. If equipped with pop-up fertilizer, make sure the tubes are intact and clean.
• Depth wheels. Depth wheels should run tight against disks. Change washers from in- to outside (or vice versa) of the depth wheel if necessary. If this doesn’t resolve the problem, the depth wheel arm needs to be replaced.
• Coulters. Check the diameter of the coulters, and replace them if needed. You should adjust the depth setting of worn coulters that are still usable.
• Row cleaners. Check for wear. Adjust to compensate for wear, or replace if worn too much.
• Closing wheels. Closing wheels need to have an intact spring that needs to be checked for damage or wear. Bearings cannot be wobbly or too tight. The bottoms of rubber or cast-iron closing wheels need to be 1.5 to 2 inches apart. The closing wheel arm cannot have too much play. If so, bushings or the entire arm may need to be replaced.
• Alignment of coulters, opener disks, and closing wheels. Take a rope and pull it straight from the front coulter to the closing wheels. The firming wheels, seed openers, and coulters should all be in line. Closing wheels should not run on top of the seed furrow. Make sure alignment also holds on side slopes.
• Insecticide boxes. The insecticide boxes should have no holes or cracks. Tubes should be blown out with air as well as the slot at the bottom of the meter.
• Fertilizer unit. Fertilizer opener disks should have a minimum diameter (check manual). The bearings should not be wobbly or too tight. Hang a bucket below the tube of the unit, and do a test run of 175 feet in the field. Weigh the fertilizer in the bucket, multiply by 100, and you have the fertilizer you'll put on in pounds per acre (at 30" row spacing). Adjust as needed.
• Chains and sprockets. Check all chains and their sprockets. If they are worn or the chain links are stiff, they need to be replaced. Chains need to have the appropriate tension and should be lubricated properly. Chain tighteners should not push the chain sideways – if so, worn bushings in the tightener pivot may need to be replaced.
• Tire pressure. Inflate tires to correct pressure.
• Clean electrical connections. Use compressed air (not water) to keep moisture away from the wires.
• Store planter in a dry place to protect against rodents. Make sure no grain is left in the planter, and store it so that rodents cannot climb into it. They often chew on wires and tubes.

Drill

• Coulters. Check the diameter of the coulters and replace them if needed. Adjust the depth setting of worn coulters that are still usable.
• Disk openers. Drills may have double or single opener disks. Check their diameter (refer to manual) and replace if worn. Also, check that the double disks touch to open a proper 'V' slot.
• Seed firmers. Some drills have seed firmers – check for wear and replace if needed.
• Depth control wheel. Some drills (John Deere) have a depth control wheel next to each opener disk that should run tight against the disks. Change washers from in- to outside (or vice versa) of the depth wheel if necessary. If this doesn't resolve the problem, the depth wheel arm needs to be replaced.
• Press wheels. Check that these wheels, which typically control both seeding depth and close the seed slot, have an intact spring and are void of damage or wear. Bearings cannot be wobbly or too tight. The closing wheel arm cannot have too much play. If so, bushings or the entire arm may need to be replaced.
• Seed tubes. Check seed tubes for cracks. Over time, they tend to become brittle and need to be replaced. Make sure the seed tubes are not clogged (spider webs have been a problem in the seed tubes coming from the small seed box).
• Chains. Check all chains and their sprockets. If they are worn or the chain links are stiff, they need to be replaced. Chains need to have the appropriate tension and should be lubricated properly.

By doing planter or drill maintenance now, you can avoid frustration later!