Natural Dyes Using Herbs

Natural dyes have been used for thousands of years. Many ancient cultures have been found to have used natural dyeing. For example, artifacts documenting the use of the red dye produced by madder (Rubia tinctorum) have been cataloged dating to 2500 BCE. These herbal dyes were used for many purposes, such as for aesthetics, religious or cultural significance, and therapeutic benefits. 

Different parts of the herb, including the flower, leaf, seed, and/or root, can be used to produce different colors of dye. To be successful in dyeing your fabrics or yarn, the process depends on the properties of the herb and the material to be dyed, the temperature and concentration of the dye solution, and the time the material spends in the solution. A deeper, more intense color in the fabric will generally result from a longer duration in the dye, an increased concentration of the dye, and a higher temperature of the dye solution.

There are various ways to achieve the transfer of color of herbs to fabric.

• Staining is the act of rubbing or soaking smashed herbs onto the fibers of fabric or yarn without using a fixative agent.  

• Pigmentation is fixing color to the fabric or yarn through an adhesive medium.  

• Dyeing is depositing an insoluble form of color from a solution into the fabric. Natural dyes are also divided into 2 categories:  
  • Substantive or direct dyeing is where the color bonds directly to the material fibers due to the natural presence of tannic acid. No additional chemicals or additives are added during the dyeing process. 
  • Adjective or indirect dyeing is where the color bonds with the use of a mordant. 

A mordant is a water-soluble fixative agent, usually a metal salt, which is used to prevent the dyed color from washing out of the fabric. These agents are commonly combined with cream of tartar or vinegar to keep the fibers of the dyed fabric soft since mordants can stiffen the fibers.

Examples of commonly used mordants include alum (brightens colors), iron (darkens colors), copper (improves the chance of obtaining a green hue), and tin (brightens colors, especially warm colors). Chrome is no longer recommended because it is so highly toxic.

An overview of the dyeing process is outlined below:

1. Remove the oils and chemicals from the fabric (that occur either naturally or as part of the manufacturing process) to aid the dye in adhering to the fibers. This process, called scouring, is achieved by adding the fabric to a mixture of boiling water, ash soda, and a small amount of fabric detergent. After a select amount of time, drain, and then rinse the fabric.  
2. Make the dye by grinding and chopping the chosen herb. Simmer the herb and water in a stockpot to extract the color.  
3. Use cheesecloth, a coffee filter, or a fine colander to strain out pieces of herbs from the dye liquid.  
4. Add a mordant, if using one, to a stainless-steel pot and boil with the prepared fabric. Rinse well with water (Note that the vessel used for dyeing should be dedicated for this use and not used for cooking.)  
5. Place the fabric into the dedicated pot with the created dye. The combination can then be heated or kept at room temperature. The time the fabric is submerged in dye depends on the desired depth of color and the permeability of the fabric itself.  
6. Rinse the fabric well with water and hang it to dry.  

Reference books and websites can provide more in-depth recipes and specific instructions on dyeing with herbs. Although the process of natural dyes is not always chemical-free and can take some time, the outcome of creating your own dyed fabrics and yarns can be very rewarding.  

Common herbs that can be used to create fabric dyes include alkanet, agrimony, basil, bay laurel, bloodroot, calendula (pot marigold), catnip, chamomile, comfrey, dill, echinacea, elderberry, false indigo, fennel, feverfew, goldenrod, lady's mantle, lavender, madder, marjoram (sweet), oregano (wild marjoram), parsley, peppermint, rosemary, rue, safflower, sage, saffron, sorrel, St. John’s wort, stinging nettle, sweet woodruff, tansy, turmeric, weld, woad, and yarrow.