Injerto de Corona o Corteza

Bark grafting is a technique that all fruit growers should be familiar with as it allows you to try a new variety in your own orchard or replace an outdated variety today we will go over the technique of bark grafting which will allow you to move fully or partially to a new variety first we will discuss some reasons why to use bark grafting then we will go over the steps to make a successful graft the session will conclude with some tips on how to care for your trees one year after grafting to begin with why bark graft the industry has seen an increase in consumer driven demand for specialty apple crops such as Honey CR Fuji and Pink Lady it is very useful to be able to convert portions of acres from older varieties to the newer and more popular cultivars quickly instead of tearing out an entire block and starting all over again working on the existing trunk allows us to replace older varieties while keeping the root system in the same location bark grafts have a high success rate making this technique an excellent option keep in mind if you want to Propagate from your own trees. All royalties must be reported and paid. If you are propagating certified materials, to perform a bark graft, you will need: a grafting knife, grafting mix, a nail gun, wire or electrical tape. Either option works. The best time to graft is in the spring after bark fall, before budding begins and up to 30 days after full bloom. Bark fall refers to when the bark can be easily peeled away from the wood of the tree. Scion should be taken from the most recent season's growth and from dormant trees between January and February. Make sure the wood you collect is not frozen. The best scions are about the thickness of a pencil. Although slightly larger or smaller pieces can also be used to start with, collect 12- to 18-inch sections of straight, upright growth. Wrap and keep them in moistened, but not wet, sphagnum moss. In addition to keeping the scion from drying out, sphagnum moss has antifungal components that prevent wood decay. Then, put the scion and sphagnum sap in a no-perforation plastic bag and keep it refrigerated or just above 32 degrees Fahrenheit to keep them dormant until you are ready to graft it do not store the scion or cutting with apples or other crops that may give off ethylene as ethylene can cause bud abort to prepare for rootstock cut the tree at a comfortable height from the ground leave a tutor or nurse branch so the tree can provide carbohydrates to the roots while the grafts consolidate the tree population can be cut earlier but make a fresh cut of 2 inches when grafting to prevent it from drying out to prepare the scion cut off an inch from the bottom to create a fresh cut next make a diagonal cut below and opposite the lowest bud so the cut surface faces inward of the tree and the bud faces outward use your knife to make sure the cut is ISO this maximizes contact between the scion and the stem next remove the cut scion from the rest of the wood by cutting it back by a quarter inch above the top of the shoot the final product should be a 3 to 6 inch piece of scion that has at least three vegetative buds locate the cambial zone at the base this is the area between the bark and the wood of the tree where new cells can differentiate make two vertical cuts at the base between the bark and the wood about the width of the scion using the tip of your knife peel back some of the bark from the wood to expose the cambia peel back enough so that the exposed wood of the scion butts up against the cambium of the rootstock insert the scion into the base or rootstock keeping the cut side pointing toward the cambium of the rootstock be careful not to damage the bark as this helps prevent the graft from drying out then drive a nail through the bark and scion to secure the graft in place insert multiple scions one for every 2 inches of circumference of the base inserting more scions will allow the injured base to heal more quickly use grafting mix to seal all exposed surfaces also apply Mixture to the top of the scions to out. Reapply if not using nails. The scion can be wrapped with electrical tape. Wrap tightly and then apply the grafting mix as you normally would. Once you have grafted all your trees, you will need to continue to care for them to ensure they establish successfully. This is achieved by removing all the fruit that is produced from the parent or nurse branches because the young fruit will compete with the growth of the scions during the first season. We want the scions to grow vigorously so that we can secure them to the trellis. On these trees grafted last year, we can see how strong the scions have grown. If you insert multiple scions, you can choose the best two and cross them or intertwine stalks. This will take the stress off the unions. Leaving these two will allow them to heal faster. Use temporary stakes to provide support for the new scions. Once the new tree is established, remove the branch after the first year. You can either choose one leader and remove the other, or you can direct the weakest scion into a horizontal position and treat it as a scaffold branch. After Next year, the combined growth of the two scions should connect and begin to heal most of the exposed surface area at the base. The scions should grow vigorously, and a full crop should begin to develop. With this information, you should be able to go out and convert some of your rows of old trees to exciting new varieties. For more information, see the Pen State Extension publication, " Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees." Special thanks to the FRK Horticulture Team for their help in