Getting Rid of Paper Wasps, Yellowjackets, and Other Stinging Insects

Step 1: Assess the Situation

The first step in dealing with stinging insects is to assess the situation and follow some steps to determine the best course of action. 

First, determine if there is a nest and, if so, how large it is. Most stinging insects will defend an area around their nest; how large that area is and how fiercely they defend it depend largely on the colony's size. Sometimes, bees and wasps may be active in an area because they have found food, water, or other resources, even though their nests are far away. Identifying the insect that is causing problems and learning some basics of its biology can also help with management.

Wasps and yellowjackets that are foraging away from their nest usually are not defensive or likely to sting, but they can still cause problems. To manage foraging bees or wasps, eliminate the attractants or prevent their access to them, or lure them elsewhere where they do not cause a problem. Yellowjackets can be particularly offensive around picnics and barbecues in late summer or fall. As much as possible, keep food and food waste tightly covered so that they cannot access it. Clean up any spills promptly and as completely as possible. Yellowjacket traps can reduce foraging worker numbers somewhat, but are unlikely to completely solve the problem. During hot, dry weather, bees and wasps may also be attracted to swimming pools, bird feeders, leaky sprinkler systems, and other water sources. Sometimes, providing an alternative water source elsewhere and chasing them away from the problem area until they decide the alternative is safer can solve the problem.

In general, foraging wasps and yellowjackets are not likely to sting and are more of a nuisance than a hazard. However, they will defend themselves by stinging if they are trapped or crushed against the skin. Therefore, people can get stung if they brush up against flowering shrubs or step barefoot on bees on blooming weeds in a lawn. Managing attractive vegetation to keep at least a few feet of space away from walkways can mitigate this risk. Sweat bees are often attracted to people on hot summer days to drink sweat and will sting if they are trapped in the crease of an elbow, an armpit, or between the fingers. Usually, their stings are mild, and the pain subsides within minutes; ignoring them can be a suitable approach. Reduce contact with sweat bees by staying indoors during very hot weather and regulating outdoor activity to minimize sweat production.

If the stinging insects do have a nest, then you can ignore it, hire a professional pest control service to kill the colony, or deal with the colony yourself. Each option has advantages and disadvantages. Consider all of the risks of each option. Leaving a nest will leave a potential sting risk that varies depending on the size and location of the nest, but eliminating the nest exposes either a pest control technician or you to a significant risk of getting stung.

Ignoring the nest avoids the cost of hiring a pest control service and the risks of dealing with it yourself. Leaving the insects also preserves their ecosystem services. Virtually all stinging insects are pollinators, though some are better pollinators than others. Paper wasps, yellowjackets, bald-faced hornets, and true hornets also hunt other insects such as caterpillars and flies, and can reduce populations of other pest insects.

Most of the bees, wasps, and yellowjackets in Pennsylvania are native and contribute to healthy ecosystems, though honey bees, European paper wasps, German yellowjackets, and European hornets are each invasive species. Introduced colonies of other hornet species, such as the northern giant hornet and yellow-legged hornet, have been found in other states. However, aggressive eradication efforts may have eliminated those populations, and they have not been found in or near Pennsylvania.

On the other hand, if the nest is in a location with a high risk of stings, tolerating it may not be acceptable. Nests near the entrances of businesses or heavily-traveled walkways are likely to be disturbed sooner or later and deliver stings. Nests near areas where children play, such as schools and playgrounds, can also be problematic because rowdy children can easily trigger defensive stings.

Consider the time of year when determining if a colony needs to be removed. Paper wasps, yellowjackets, hornets, and bumble bees all start new colonies in late spring or early summer, and their colonies die off over winter. Nests that are discovered in the fall will naturally perish soon anyway, so management may not be necessary. Alternatively, a colony discovered in May or June may be small enough to ignore, but it could grow into a problem by August or September. Dealing with the nest early in the season, while it is small, is safer and easier than waiting for it to grow.

If a nest is deemed too dangerous to ignore and must be removed, the next decision is whether to hire a pest control service or do the work yourself. The primary downsides of hiring a pest control service are cost and scheduling. Prices vary by situation and company, but stinging insect nest removals typically cost over $100. Scheduling the work will depend on the availability of a technician and may be delayed from the time the problem is discovered. However, many advantages to hiring a professional pest control service make the expense and potential wait worthwhile. The technician assumes the risk of being stung and provides the knowledge, tools, and labor to complete the work. Pest control companies also carry liability insurance that covers any risk of property damage during the treatment. 

The biggest downside to eliminating a bee or wasp colony yourself is the risk of getting stung. Many precautions can reduce the likelihood of getting stung, but none of them are completely sting-proof. If you know that you are allergic to insect stings, then you should not attempt to remove a colony yourself. Other downsides to do-it-yourself approaches are the need to acquire, store, and maintain the relevant tools and equipment.

Specific characteristics of the nest and its location can affect how easy it is to eliminate. Determine whether the nest is exposed or hidden underground, in a void, or in a cavity. If the nest is exposed, identify whether it has open combs or is enclosed in an envelope. Roughly estimate the population size of the nest; management techniques differ depending on whether the nest is just a queen and immature stages, a queen plus a small number of workers, or a fully established colony with a large number of workers. Honey bees can be more difficult to manage than most other insects, so determine whether the insects are honey bees or something else. Consider other factors, like whether the nest is accessible from the ground or requires a ladder or crawling into an enclosed space.

Step 2: Protect Yourself

Working with stinging insects is inherently dangerous, but some basic precautions can mitigate the risks.

Protective Behaviors

Observe the area and plan your methods during the day, but plan to do the work at night. At night, all of the insects in the nest are less likely to fly and have trouble seeing. Stinging insects usually have a heavily traveled flight path in and out of the nest. Observe from a safe distance of 10 to 15 feet away to identify their flight path and stay away from it, both during the observations and during the nest treatment. If the insects start flying while you work at night, they are most likely to fly along their usual flight path or fly from their nest to the nearest light source, so avoid working in either of those paths. Determine exactly where you will work and where you will situate light sources so that you can see but will not draw the insects toward you.

Especially for large colonies, plan an escape route. If the insects get too defensive, retreating and reattempting the removal after a few hours or days to let them settle can help avoid stings. In addition, some insecticide application techniques, like dusting, work well with a hit-and-run approach. If you must use the escape route, do not panic or swat at the insects, but walk calmly, quietly, and quickly directly away from the nest. Sometimes, one or a few workers will chase for a long distance, but usually the defenders lose interest as soon as you retreat.

The more distance you can keep between yourself and the nest, the less likely you are to get stung. Some pesticide application equipment enables controlled applications from about 15 feet away, which may be enough to stay out of harm's way. If you can work at night from 15-20 feet away and both the regular flight path and light sources draw any flying insects away from you, then the risk of getting stung decreases significantly.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Personal Protective Equipment, or PPE, can protect against stings, insecticides, and other hazards that may be encountered while dealing with stinging insects.

PPE for stings

Keep exposed skin to a minimum when dealing with stinging insects. Their stings can puncture most fabrics, including bee suits, but are not long enough to reach the skin if the fabric is thick, baggy, or has additional layers of clothing underneath it. A bee suit can provide fairly good protection against stings, but a thick, loose-fitting sweatshirt tucked into similar pants works about as well. A mosquito head net can limit insects’ ability to reach your head, though it is not as robustly designed to minimize skin contact as a beekeeping veil.

Tuck pant legs into long socks or tape them closed to prevent insects from climbing inside and stinging the legs. Most closed-toed shoes are thick enough to protect against stings unless an insect crawls inside and stings the foot or ankle through a sock. Likewise, wear gloves and close the cuffs with tape, rubber bands, or shirt sleeves, being cautious of any movement that might pull the cuffs open. Chemical-resistant gloves can protect against both stings and insecticides if the material is thick enough and does not tear while working.

Stinging insects are remarkably capable of identifying and targeting the face. Most can recognize eyes by sight, plus exhaled breath provides a scent cue of a threat. In addition, at least some species of yellowjackets can spray venom at the eyes through a bee veil. Wearing eye protection, such as safety glasses, goggles, or a face shield, can help obscure your face and protect your eyes from stings or venom sprayed into them. Also, wearing a mask or respirator can prevent stinging insects from recognizing your breath or pinpointing its source. Both eye protection and respiratory protection can also reduce the risk of insecticide exposures.

PPE for insecticides and other hazards

Read the label of whatever insecticides you use to determine the minimum PPE requirements while using those products. At a minimum, you should wear long sleeves, long pants, closed-toed shoes with socks, and chemical-resistant gloves. Even if the label does not require them, it is a good idea to use eye protection with any spray application above shoulder height to protect against splashes hitting the eyes, and to use respiratory protection with dusts or wettable powders. For above-the-shoulder spray applications, flip the gloves' cuffs so they form cups. That way, if any insecticide runs down the gloves, it will collect in the cuffs and drain to the ground rather than running onto the sleeve. Be careful to keep the wrists covered against stings.

If a nest is in a crawlspace or other area with low head clearance, then a bump cap or helmet may be appropriate. If accessing the nest requires a ladder,  ensure that it is stable and well-supported. Consider the hazards of both heights and stings.

Sting First Aid

Unless a sting allergy is involved, first aid for stings is usually fairly simple. Even with proper first aid, a sting can cause localized pain, itching, and swelling that may linger for several days. If the symptoms spread significantly from the sting site, are intolerable, or cause difficulty breathing or swallowing, seek medical attention immediately. Medical attention may be warranted for stings around the eyes, nose, mouth, or throat if swelling obstructs vision or breathing.

If the sting tears out of the insect and remains lodged in the skin, promptly pull it out. The classic recommendation is to scrape it out with a credit card or knife blade to avoid squeezing the venom gland and driving more venom into the skin. However, limited evidence suggests that prompt removal is more important than the method of removal, and quickly plucking the sting out with the fingers may result in less venom being injected than scraping it out.

Wash the area quickly with soap and water. Insect stings release alarm pheromones that attract additional workers to sting. If you get stung while working and do not wash the pheromones away, then you are likely to receive additional stings. Therefore, bring soap and water so that you can quickly clean up any stings without leaving the work site. In addition, insect stings can transmit bacteria that can cause infections, though such infections are rare.

Lastly, take steps to minimize swelling. Apply cold compresses or ice packs wrapped in rags to the sting site. Consider taking an over-the-counter nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug and/or antihistamine drug according to label instructions. If you have any concerns about taking medications or if you experience any unusual symptoms after the sting, contact your doctor.

Step 3: Gather Tools

Eliminating a stinging insect nest will almost always require some tools, though many of these are easily accessible at hardware stores, home improvement stores, or grocery stores.

Insecticides

Insecticides will almost always be needed to eliminate a large nest. Unless a nest is very small, non-insecticidal approaches are often more dangerous than using an appropriate insecticide due to the risk of getting stung while working. Read the label to determine how the insecticide works and confirm that bees, wasps, yellowjackets, or hornets are listed as target pests and that the application method you plan to use is not prohibited. Insecticides that are appropriate for stinging insect colonies include ready-to-use aerosols, liquid concentrates, foams, and dusts. Each of these insecticides can work well in certain situations, but none of them is appropriate in all situations.

Ready-to-use aerosol wasp and hornet sprays are sold in pressurized cans with a spray nozzle at the top. Most can spray 15 to 20 feet. Usually, the insecticide loses its toxicity when it dries, but it provides immediate knockdown and kills the sprayed insects. These are useful to eliminate exposed, open-comb nests or small, exposed, enveloped nests. However, their penetration of larger or concealed nests is often poor. Because they can knock insects out of the air immediately, ready-to-use aerosols can be used to knock down defensive workers when other insecticides are more appropriate for the whole nest.

Liquid concentrates must be diluted with water according to label instructions. Then, they are applied with a separate sprayer. Some products lose efficacy after drying, like ready-to-use aerosols, but most leave toxic residues that can kill insects that encounter them for several weeks or months after application. They can kill insects quickly, but usually not as quickly as ready-to-use aerosols. Liquid concentrates can be used to soak into large, exposed nests protected by thick paper envelopes, or to drench the soil to treat underground nests.

Foams are similar to liquid concentrates but either come with a foaming agent or require one to be added. They foam up to a consistency similar to dish soap suds. Foams are useful for treating underground nests or nests in voids or cavities where water exposure is not a problem.

Dusts are dry, powdery insecticides applied with a handheld bulb duster or bellows duster. In many cases, the insecticide irritates the insects, prompting them to attack the dust and poison themselves. Dusts work best for nests that are protected by an envelope, underground, or in a cavity.

Other Tools

Other tools that will be needed include a light source and whatever other tools are needed to access the nest before, during, and after treatment.

The light source should be bright enough to see to work, but dim enough that darkness can still hide you from the insects. Most stinging insects have difficulty seeing red, so using a red light or a red filter can help keep them in the dark. Position the light away from where you will be so that any disturbed insects that fly toward it are drawn away from you.

Extension pole attachments can be used to operate ready-to-use aerosols or dusters from the end of an extension pole. These allow for precise applications of insecticides from a great enough distance that the insects may not discover you. Telescopic duster attachments are also available to increase the application range of dusters, though they are expensive and can leak dust at the joints.

Depending on the exact situation, you may also need ladders, shovels, crowbars, saws, screwdrivers, or other tools to access the nest. Soap and water can also be useful to quickly clean up any stings. 

Step 4: Eliminating the Colony

The general methods for eliminating nests vary depending on several factors.

Nests Without Workers

Nests without workers may be produced by solitary bees and wasps or may be the newly-founded nests of bumble bees, paper wasps, yellowjackets, or hornets. Because no workers are present, the risk of getting stung is low, and eliminating the nest often takes only a few minutes.

If the nests are made of mud or contained in narrow tunnels or burrows, then they are probably the work of solitary bees or wasps. In some cases, solitary bees and wasps congregate in an ideal nesting site, and many females build their nests in the same place. However, they do not cooperate to defend their nest sites like social bees and wasps do, so the sting risk remains low. If the insects are enough of a nuisance to warrant removal, then the adults can be killed by swatting, collecting with a vacuum, or being shot down with ready-to-use aerosol insecticides. Then, mud nests can be scraped off and destroyed. Nests in tunnels can be treated with dust to kill developing larvae after they emerge, which may be delayed by many months. After the insects are eliminated, seal up any holes with caulk or putty to limit future infestations. 

Newly started, exposed colonies of paper wasps or yellowjackets that must be removed can either be relocated or eliminated. To relocate a nest, catch the queen in a small jar. Detach the nest, take it to a new location, and glue, nail, or staple it in place. If possible, hold the jar with the queen over the nest in the new location until she settles onto the nest.

To eliminate them, either swat the queen, spray her with a ready-to-use aerosol, or knock her down with a garden hose and then kill her. Then knock down and destroy the nest. If you used an insecticide to kill the queen in her nest, avoid touching the nest until after the spray has dried, though it can be knocked down promptly with a stick or other implement.

Small Exposed Nests

Small exposed nests include paper wasp nests of any age and recently established aerial yellowjacket or bald-faced hornet nests. Treat at night with a ready-to-use aerosol insecticide. For small nests enclosed in a paper envelope, aim the spray up into the nest entrance as much as possible and completely soak the nest. After the insecticide dries, knock down and destroy the nest to prevent protected pupae from maturing and emerging.

Large Exposed Nests

Large exposed nests are mainly produced by bald-faced hornets, which are actually a type of aerial yellowjacket rather than a true hornet. The thick, many-layered, and somewhat water-repellent envelope around the nest can make treatment difficult.

If a nest is situated where you can quickly and easily contain it, entire colonies can be captured in heavy-duty trash bags by carefully containing them in the bag at night and tying the bag tightly before they can escape. However, this approach can easily lead to many stings if the nest is bumped or jostled before it is completely contained, and it is not practical at all for nests that are too firmly attached to a wall, soffit, or tree branch.

An insecticide treatment option is to soak the nest with a liquid concentrate-type insecticide with some residual action. Specifically target the nest entrance to get as much insecticide into the nest as possible. You may need to spray the nest, let the insecticide soak in, and repeat several times to work the insecticide through the envelope. Even if the colony is not completely killed outright, the insecticide residues throughout the nest and at the nest entrance should kill any remaining workers within a couple of days, as well as new workers that emerge from the combs.

Another option is to use a dust-type insecticide. Apply as much dust as possible up into the nest entrance. Retreat when the bald-faced hornets become agitated. Ideally, the hornets will track the dust through the nest well enough to kill the entire colony. Repeated treatments may be needed on successive nights to completely kill the colony. Punching the duster through the envelope in several locations to inject dust can improve coverage, but it can lead to stings.

A final option is to use a ready-to-use aerosol with an injection straw attached to the nozzle. Spray the insecticide up into the nest entrance, thoroughly wetting the entrance and as many combs as possible. Punch the straw through the envelope in several locations and inject more insecticide from several points on the nest to further increase coverage. Repeated treatments may be needed on successive nights.

Regardless of the treatment method, confirm that the colony is completely dead the next day. Knock down and destroy the nest to kill any protected larvae and pupae.

Underground Nests  

Underground colonies are usually yellowjackets. Using insecticides to manage underground nests is far less dangerous than attempting to access the nest without insecticides. Two approaches work well for underground nests.

One approach is to treat with a dust insecticide. Apply a generous amount of dust into the nest entrance. You may need to puff in dust until the yellowjackets start investigating, back off until they settle, then return to inject more dust. Repeat the hit-and-run approach until the yellowjackets' defensive response is too vigorous to return. Usually, they will attack the dust and track enough dust back into the nest to eliminate the colony.

Another approach is to treat with a foam insecticide. Inject the foam into the nest entrance until the hole will not accept any more foam. Usually, any yellowjackets that attempt to defend the nest will be too weighed down with foam to fly.

A final approach is to use a liquid concentrate insecticide as a soil drench. Attempt to pinpoint the location of the nest itself, keeping in mind that the entrance may be several feet away. Pour some of the insecticide down the nest entrance, then pour it on the ground directly above and in a circle around the nest. The goal is to treat the soil all around the nest so that any yellowjackets that attempt to come or go from the nest will be poisoned.

If underground nests are left in place, then scavengers like skunks or bears may later dig them up to eat the dead larvae and pupae. The excavated cavity where the nest was constructed is likely to collapse over time, potentially causing the ground above it to sink. Digging up and removing the nest can avoid both issues, but might not be necessary if scavengers or ground sinking are not a concern.

Nests in Cavities

Yellowjackets, European hornets, and honey bees all commonly nest in hollow trees, structural voids in buildings, and other protected cavities. Eliminating yellowjacket or hornet colonies can be somewhat different from eliminating honey bee colonies.

In both cases, identify the nest entrance or entrances. If the insects are entering a building, attempt to find their entry inside. Seal up or treat the interior entry before the exterior entry to avoid pushing the whole colony indoors. Also, try to locate the exact location of the nest before killing it. The colony will generate heat, so an infrared camera or laser thermometer may be able to pinpoint its location as a warm spot in a wall. Alternatively, a stethoscope can be used to listen for the rustling of legs and wings, and gently knocking on the wall near the nest can stimulate audible buzzing.

Yellowjackets or hornets in cavities

Treating yellowjacket or hornet colonies in structures is similar to treating underground yellowjacket nests. Be cautious with foam or liquid insecticides in structures, which may cause water damage to wood, drywall, or electrical components. Dust is usually preferable in these situations.

If the nest and dead insects are left in a wall or roof, then scavenging insects like carpet beetles are likely to colonize the remains after the insecticide breaks down. This can take several years for dusts that remain dry. Very large nests can contain so many insects that their dead bodies rot rather than dehydrate, which can lead to odors or staining. In addition, the yellowjackets or hornets may have chewed away insulation to make room for their nest, and the gap in insulation may result in future drafts, heat loss, and condensation issues. To avoid these issues, open the void, remove the nest and dead insects, and repair any damage they caused.

Honey bees in cavities

Honey bees in structural cavities are a significant problem. Their colony populations are often 10-100X larger than those of yellowjackets or hornets, and an old nest may include hundreds of pounds of honey and wax comb and fill an entire wall.

While honey bee health has been a public discussion for decades, honey bees are not native to North America. None of our native plants depend on them for pollination, and honey bees can actually interfere with pollination by more effective native pollinators. In addition, most or all agricultural systems in Pennsylvania are adequately pollinated by native pollinators, so adding honey bees does not provide yield increases. Therefore, honey bees are more destructive than beneficial outside of beekeeping operations.

One option for honey bee removal is to find a beekeeper who is willing to remove the nest. Beekeepers who do this work are few and far between because it requires proficiency in both beekeeping and construction work. Local, county, or state beekeepers’ associations may assist with finding local beekeepers willing to do this work. Expect to pay for the service because the travel, labor, skill, and tools required for this work are too extensive to be compensated by only a bee colony and some honey. Before having a beekeeper start working, communicate clearly about what exactly the beekeeper will complete. Will they complete the repair or only open the structure to remove the nest, and leave you with repairs?

If a beekeeper removal is not possible, then the colony can be killed by dusting the same way as yellowjackets or hornets. Because honey bee colonies can be so large, multiple treatments may be necessary. Removing the nest is even more important with honey bees than with yellowjackets or hornets. The large number of bees and waxy nest structure hold moisture well enough to rot rather than simply drying up. If the honey absorbs enough moisture from the dead bees to begin fermenting, then the decomposing sugar releases additional moisture that can keep the rotting process going. Additionally, if the nest overheats, then fresh wax comb may melt, though older comb is more resistant to melting.

Common Misconceptions

Decoy nests are sometimes suggested to prevent paper wasps or yellowjackets from building their nests. These can be purchased as-is or roughly approximated by stuffing a brown paper bag with crumpled newspaper or other lightweight, bulky material and hanging it as if it were a bald-faced hornet nest. However, no clear evidence indicates that this practice actually prevents stinging paper wasps or yellowjackets from nesting, and many anecdotal reports of nests being built close to one another contradict the idea. 

Another common but inappropriate recommendation is to use fire to eliminate a nest of stinging insects. This method is significantly more dangerous than the methods described above. Commonly used fuels, such as gasoline or kerosene, are more toxic than most appropriate insecticides. In addition, fires can spread quickly and cause significant property damage or personal injury.