Gardening in Winter
Posted: January 17, 2012
As a seasoned gardener, one would think that a time would come when new designs, new spaces and new plant or ornamental additions would come to a halt. However, just the opposite seems to happen. I don’t have a gardener friend that isn’t always thinking about the next season, what to improve, move or change.
We’ve been lucky to have a warm December, allowing us to still dig in the soil. Last minute bulbs, transplanting and other garden chores could still be accomplished. However, even though warmer than average temperatures are predicted for January through March, we are still indoors most of the time, longing to be digging in the dirt. And on those warmer days, we can take the time to go into the garden and look at its structure. Without leaves on the trees, it’s very easy to see where our holes are, where evergreens could be added, or where there may be too much growth or plant material. Plant structure, like branching habit, twisted stems, drooping branches are easily seen during the winter season.
Hard structures like arbors, statues, and pergolas, are often formed in the imagination of gardeners in January. As we take our inventory, look through the books and on the internet, garden additions and designs are formed. Committing it to paper is our next step. This gives us the opportunity to move things around, search better flow, and determine special uses of the garden.
After determining what needs to happen, whether it’s adding empty space to the garden, constructing something new to delineate an area, or focusing on more color and texture, then you can think about naming plants. This is where research becomes most important. The right plant for the right place will make your gardening successful. Knowing the soil, moisture, winds and sunlight will narrow your plant selection, making those decisions that much easier. A rainy or snowy day makes for a great time to look over the catalogs and gardening books for plant lists that can work for you and your environment. Then when April and May rolls around, you’ll be armed with a wealth of knowledge, a plan, and a plant and supply list to visit garden centers.
In addition to garden design in the winter, this becomes a time to plan your vegetable or fruit garden. These gardens require full sun and well-drained soil. Be sure you can provide a minimum of 6 hours for successful crops. Browse the seed catalogs. You can learn of new selections and introductions, learn of disease resistant hybrids, as well as learn about tried and true heirloom varieties.
These gardens can be designed in many ways, from raised garden beds, to fenced-in areas, to a tilled area in the sunniest spot in your yard. Since you have already taken a close look at your garden space, you’ll be easily able to determine what type of edible garden will fit into your overall design. And, hopefully, you’ll know what kind of critters may visit your garden as well, since this could determine if some type of fencing will be necessary to protect your vegetables and fruit.
When planning the vegetable garden, keep in mind the types of crops you want to grow and whether they are cold or warm season plants. You can start as early as March with cold season crops, depending on the weather. (Be sure the soil isn’t too wet when planting out transplants or seeds. Wet soil will rot seeds and roots.) Crops such as peas, potatoes, lettuce, spinach, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower can be planted as early as mid- March.
Worried that it still may be too cold? Try using row covers. These simple “blankets” will warm up the soil and give you a jump start as early as two weeks! You can also start your warm season crops inside from seeds by April. Tomatoes, cucumbers, and zucchini can typically be started by mid-April for transplants by mid-May.
If you are looking at starting a fruit garden, be sure to order your plants early in the year. Spend the month of January researching varieties and sizes and place your plant order by February. Fruit trees go quickly, so if you need a particular variety, the earlier the better. There are many varieties that have been recently introduced that are disease resistant with good flavor.
Remember when selecting your trees to look at the size of the rootstock, since the size is controlled by the rootstock. M9 and Bud 9 are the smallest rootstock, making them ideal for the home gardener. However, staking is important when growing these trees, as they cannot stand without additional support. Research the many staking methods. Trellises can be easily used for support, as well as fencing and walls.
As you can see, there is lots of gardening that can be done in January. It just doesn’t require you to get dirty! Start by walking through the garden, taking inventory, creating a drawing, and researching plants and your winter will fly on by! Before you know it, spring will be here and you’ll be so well prepared that you’ll be able to jump right into it!
Mary Ann Ryan is the Extension Consumer Horticulture Educator serving the South East Region. Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce. Penn State Cooperative Extension in Cumberland County is located at 310 Allen Road, Suite 601, Carlisle, PA 17013 phone 717-240-6500, Office e-mail Cumberlandext@psu.edu.

